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 A Summary of the Present; Some Questions about the Future
One of the more interesting hiking developments over the last few decades has been the creation of longer "scenic" trails. Modelled upon the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, these new trails cover many miles (though they are generally shorter than the aforementioned routes) and offer the opportunity for extended recreation. Some of these, the Tahoe Rim Trail, for example, have turned into stellar routes worthy of a week (or longer) backpack trip. But others, most notably the Backbone Trail of the Santa Monica National Recreational Area, are essentially expensive "feel good" projects with little recreational value due to extensive regulations on camping and use. The Bay Area Ridge Trail, one of the largest of these projects, is about 60% complete. It covers some truly scenic land and when finished, it will extend almost 500 miles. This book, now in its second edition, is an excellent guide to the completed portions of the trail. But as I read it, I was unsure how the trail would ultimately turn out. Will it become a fabulous mid range distance hike, open to users from all over, or will it be merely an expensive resigning of existing routes that will only see day use, and then only over portions of the trail?
Rusmore is an experienced hiker, having cut her teeth on the San Gabriel mountains in southern California before moving to the more beautiful, but less rugged, Bay Area. She has explored the area extensively for decades and her guidebooks are very detailed. Every stretch of trail described in this book that I have hiked is accurate. In addition to very detailed trail descriptions, this book includes topo maps showing both the main (hiking) route and alternative biking and equestrian routes. She also includes notes on side routes where appropriate and such camping options as are available. Some sections of the Ridge Trail can be hiked continuously, and she gives added treatment to these areas, most notably the East Bay Skyline Trail and the trail in the Marin Headlands. In all this is a very well done book and those hoping to hike the parts of the trail now open, as well as those seeking extended day hikes and a few point to point backpack trips would be well advised to buy this book.
But having read the book, I worry about the future of the Bay Area Ridge Trail. Three concerns come to mind. First, camping opportunities are not very abundant. This problem can effectively kill a trail as a through hike. Indeed, the Backbone Trail is effectively pointless for this very reason. Of course, it is true that people might simply seek day hike opportunites, but the Bay Area has no shortage of these (despite its relatively small size, the Bay Area is by far the largest chapter of California Hiking and has numerous hiking opportunities.) To justify a trail of this scope and expense, camping opportunities for a through hike are a must. And this leads to problem 2: to complete this trail, either some private land must be crossed or various public agencies will have to purchase, at great expense, considerable additional land in the part of the country that boasts the most pricy real estate in the nation. I think the most cost effective way to do this would be by use of eminent domain. Unfortunately, local government officials would much rather condemn private homes to build a new Walmart or sports arena than to pay property owners for the use of a trail through their lands. As a result, eminent domain now has a pretty bad name and is being restricted by concerns citizens who (rightly) do not trust their local government to use it wisely. I have no solution for this problem (though it should be noted that some landowners, notably George Lucas, have graciously allowed trail building and public access through their property.) I do, however, think the author's claim that these problems will be solved and the trail completed by 2012 is overly optimistic. If all the relevant public agencies work together, maybe, but this leads to... Problem 3: multiple agencies means multiple regulations which can kill through hiking opportunities. Already hikers need a special permit on East Bay Skyland lands, fees in various county and state parks, etc. This is reasonable for day hikes, but unrealistic for longer backpack trips.
So in conclusion, I think the Bay Area Ridge Trail shows a lot of promise. It certainly covers a lot of nice country which this book glowingly describes. And, as the author notes, it remains a work in progress. Whether it becomes the preeminent urban-wildlands trail, or just an expensive proposition in doing "something" remains to be seen. I am cautiously optimistic that it will become more like the Tahoe Rim Trail and less like the unfortunate Backbone Trail. It could easily be more scenic than both, if the sharp black and white photos in this book are any guide. But only time will tell.
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